Egypt

Angie
January 5, 2024
- Travel, Africa

I have been to Egypt twice. First time in Sharm El-Sheikh in May on an all inclusive holiday with my Mum and second time in Cairo in December with my Husband whilst we travelled through different countries. I believe despite this being the same country it was two very different trips due to: the style of travelling, the weather and the environment.

Egypt
Sharm El-Sheikh
Cairo

Sharm El-Sheikh

Travel to Sharm El-Sheikh

I flew to Sharm El-Sheik from London on a budget airline. The flight was around 5 hours long. Keep in mind that budget airlines do not offer any food or refreshments for free, and there is no in-flight entertainment, along with very small seats. I would not recommend flying with these types of airlines if you have small children or require more room. It felt like a very long 5 hours, so I made sure to download things to watch on my phone and got snacks and drinks in the airport to take onto the plane. Sharm El-Sheik is also the only visa-free destination in Egypt. You will need a visa if you travel to Hurghada, which is the other popular choice when choosing a holiday in Egypt.

We took a shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel, which was part of our all-inclusive package holiday. This journey took around 30 minutes.

Accommodation in Sharm El-Sheikh

Our hotel was situated in an area with a row of hotels lined up next to each other. Being an all-inclusive hotel, our package included all meals and drinks. The room was spacious, featuring a balcony that overlooked gardens and other hotel buildings.

Despite Egypt’s desert landscape, considerable effort is put into making areas and hotels aesthetically pleasing, adorned with palm trees and various flowers that require daily watering and maintenance. Our hotel boasted a large adult pool, a kids’ pool, an indoor pool, and a private beach.

Additional amenities included an onsite spa at an extra cost (it’s advisable to explore external spas as they tend to be more cost-effective than those within hotels) and a gym.

The hotel’s dining options comprised a single buffet-style restaurant. While breakfast offered a variety despite being repetitive, lunch and dinner menus changed. If given the choice, I would recommend selecting a hotel with multiple restaurants to avoid the monotony of buffet dining every day.

A brief 5-minute walk from the hotel led us to an outdoor shopping and restaurant area. This vibrant area came alive at night, exclusively designed to cater to the surrounding hotels. We enjoyed strolling here in the evening. However, beyond this, there were limited walking options or additional attractions in our vicinity. If I were to return, I’d opt for a different area in Sharm El-Sheik with more activities, such as Na’Ama Bay.

Attraction in Sharm El-Sheikh

Attractions in Sharm El-Sheik are notably affordable compared to those in Europe and other parts of the world. During our stay, we indulged in a variety of activities, including a city tour, quad bike adventure, jeep desert safari to explore canyons, horseback riding, a snorkelling trip, a ‘VIP’ boat excursion, and a hammam spa experience. Thanks to the reasonable prices, we were able to partake in all of these activities. While prices may increase during peak seasons, they are likely to remain very affordable.

We booked some of our excursions through well-known global travel websites and a few through the hotel representative. In our experience, trips arranged by hotel representatives tend to be pricier than those booked online. Consequently, we had already secured some excursions before meeting with the hotel rep. Our intention for the meeting was to seek information about the area and gather insights on what to look out for. Surprisingly, the hotel rep offered cheaper options than what we found online and even organised a trip that wasn’t originally part of his standard package.

Hotel Hammam Spa in Sharm El-Sheikh

We did opt for a spa hamam package at the hotel, influenced by the persuasive sales skills of the spa representative. However, this turned out to be our only regret, and I feel it’s essential to share this cautionary tale. On our first day of relaxation by the pool, a spa staff member offered us a complimentary hand massage, showcasing impressive skill. This experience led us to purchase a hammam package, which supposedly included a sauna, full body scrub, full body massage, indoor pool, and jacuzzi. The enticing prospect of having the same skilled masseuse convinced us to pay a relatively high price for a 2-hour session.

Upon arriving for the massage, we discovered that the saleswoman was not the one providing the massage. The sequence of events deviated from the standard hammam procedure, with the massage being less than satisfying. The entire experience lasted only about 90 minutes. To our disappointment, we later learned that, for the same price, we could have enjoyed three hammam sessions each outside the hotel. This served as a valuable lesson for the future.

“VIP” boat trip Sharm El-Sheikh

I was initially uncertain about the name of our boat trip as a ‘VIP’ experience when booking it, it was the most expensive option we encountered, a decision made just the night before to book this trip. Even though I mentioned its cost, it became apparent that in Europe, a similar boat trip of this calibre would easily demand four or five times the price.

To my surprise, the boat was impressively spacious, accommodating very few passengers. In contrast to my previous experiences with overcrowded boats resembling sardine cans, this vessel boasted three floors. The top floor featured sunbeds, a novel experience for me, and the attentive staff enhanced the overall atmosphere.

The scenic view as we sailed out of the bay created the feeling of a private boat trip. The lunch provided surpassed the standards of typical boat trips and was arguably the best I’ve had. We made stops at three snorkelling locations, each offering stunning underwater scenery with vibrant and diverse fish. This turned out to be my favourite boat trip to date.

However, my only negative experience stemmed from an onboard “photographer” who persistently took our pictures throughout the day, despite our repeated statements of disinterest in purchasing them. As we sailed back to the port, he insisted we buy a minimum of 10 pictures, priced three times higher than the cost of the entire boat trip. We offered to purchase just one or two photos, but he refused. Navigating a firm ‘no’ remains a skill I am working on, as people can quickly shift from initial friendliness to annoyance when faced with rejection.

Horse riding in Sharm El-Sheikh

Despite my love for horses, I’ve had limited opportunities for horseback riding. While I’ve always harboured a desire to take lessons in England, the costs there are often prohibitive. The same holds true for horse riding while on holiday or travelling. Our horse riding excursion in Sharm El-Sheik was arranged through a hotel representative selling various trips.

Although horse riding wasn’t initially offered by the hotel rep, we inquired about it, prompting him to contact someone who organised the trip for us. Surprisingly, the cost for two people was less than what we had paid per person in Crete. We were conveniently picked up from our hotel and transported about 30 minutes away to an area outside the wall surrounding Sharm El-Sheikh.

Upon arrival, we were asked about our horse riding experience. Despite our limited proficiency, we were each given a horse to ride, and without much ado, we set off. I was assigned a beautiful white horse, and with only the guide accompanying us, the intimate setting made the experience much more enjoyable than being part of a larger group.

Our journey took us across the desert with mountains unfolding in front of us. We made a delightful stop at a Bedouin-style cafe nestled in the midst of the desert for some tea before heading back. The ride offered picturesque views, although the presence of people riding quad bikes made us a bit uneasy, even though our horses appeared unfazed by the activity.

On this occasion, another ‘photographer’ appeared at both the beginning and end of our horse ride, and I suspect he was the owner of the horses. Presenting us with the stunning pictures he had taken during our ride, and considering the affordability of the horse riding itself, as well as the low cost for all the photos, we decided to make the purchase. Although we didn’t necessarily require the photos, I believe that paying for these types of add-ons can be beneficial for the horse owner, particularly if their business isn’t extensively advertised by the hotel representative. He did not have the pushy arrogant attitude the photographer on the boat trip did as well which was another reason we agreed.

Mosques and female prayer areas in Sharm El-Sheikh

Sharm El-Sheikh was developed primarily for tourism, so it came as no surprise that we couldn’t hear the azan from our hotel, and there were no mosques in close proximity. However, during our city tour, we visited the largest mosque in Sharm El-Sheikh. While we didn’t go inside the mosque, I learned that the female area is only open on Fridays for Jummah Prayer. I do understand that most of the Egyptians who migrated here for work are males, this is probably one of the reasons the mosque does not accommodate female worshipers during the week. I must add the mosque was a striking new addition to the landscape.

Our hotel lacked a designated prayer area, leading me to return to my room for prayer. During our excursions, I made it a point to inquire with our guides about suitable prayer spaces. Without exception, I was always accommodated, either by being directed to the staff prayer areas or shown a quiet spot where I could perform my prayers. I ensured to carry my compact prayer mat with me on these occasions.

Weather in Sharm El-Sheikh

The weather toward the end of May ranged between 25-30 degrees Celsius. In my opinion, the climate was just right—neither too cold nor too hot. Personally, I believe that being in Sharm El-Sheikh during peak season could be challenging and less enjoyable. The moderate temperatures during our visit allowed us to fully enjoy all our day trips, something that might be a struggle during hotter weather in this region.

Culture in Sharm El-Sheikh

As mentioned earlier, Sharm El-Sheikh was purposefully designed for tourism, attracting residents who relocated here for that specific reason. Despite not gaining a deep sense of local life, I found the Egyptian people to be exceptionally friendly and welcoming. It seemed evident that they value tourists for the economic boost they bring to the region. The warmth and respect I encountered from everyone I met were notable, a departure from the typical experience on all-inclusive holidays.

Initially, I was puzzled by the existence of a 36-kilometre concrete and wire wall surrounding Sharm El-Sheikh. Upon conducting research, I learned that this measure was implemented to enhance the area’s safety and encourage more tourism. Consequently, Sharm El-Sheikh is a controlled zone, and entry is permitted only through designated checkpoints.

Conclusion of Sharm El-Sheikh

Sharm El-Sheikh is undoubtedly one of the best holiday destinations I have experienced, and I have plans to explore other parts of Egypt in the future. I find it to be a superior travel destination compared to many places in Europe, with relatively short flight times. The combination of affordability and high standards in Sharm El-Sheikh is particularly enticing. The region boasts the allure of the desert and crystal-clear waters of the Red Sea. With a diverse range of activities, I believe there is something for everyone to enjoy here.

Cairo

Travel to Cairo

I travelled to Cairo in December with my husband from Saudi Arabia on a spontaneous, unplanned trip booked the night before. Eager to witness the pyramids and anticipating our return to England, we chose Cairo for its proximity to home and as a transitional stop before facing the cold, rainy weather in England. Our 2-hour flight from Jeddah to Cairo was affordable and included baggage.

However, the departure process from Cairo Airport left a lasting impression. The airport exhibited an excessive amount of security measures, which in my opinion, were not particularly effective. Upon entering the airport, our luggage underwent scanning, only for us to join another lengthy queue for a second round of scanning with all our belongings. Despite this redundant process, it was time-consuming, and the presence of individuals tipping airport staff to jump the queue further frustrated those in the regular line.

During this ordeal, I encountered a challenge regarding my passport picture, taken almost 10 years ago when I was a teenager. After eventually checking in our bags, we proceeded through passport control, only to find yet another body scanner at our gate. The segregation of male and female queues added to the frustration, as my husband was permitted to proceed while I, along with other female passengers, had to wait. The security officers took turns allowing only men or women through, creating unnecessary delays. I found this process ineffective, with scanners beeping constantly but seemingly without any substantive checks. This experience made me appreciate the thorough yet efficient security measures at English airports, conducted once but with a more meticulous approach.

Visa in Cairo

When we arrived at Cairo Airport, we proceeded directly to the border control area. Upon reaching the counter, we were informed that we needed to pay for the visa in American dollars, Euros, or British Pounds. Lacking these currencies, we located a different visa counter that accepted payments via credit card. Joining one of the queues for border control and stamping, we encountered an issue when we reached the front: this line was designated exclusively for Egyptian nationals, despite the absence of any signage indicating such restrictions. Undeterred, we moved to another line, where we successfully obtained our passport stamps. Presenting the visa ticket received during the payment process, we were granted a 30-day visa. Unlike entry procedures in some other countries, we were not questioned about our length of stay in Egypt, asked to provide proof of accommodation, or present details of our outbound flights.

Sim Card in Cairo

We did our research on the best sim card to get in Cairo before arriving. We knew Vodafone and Orange were the most popular choices, Vodafone cost more despite being faster. When we arrived in Cairo airport we found the Vodafone and Orange counters were next to each other. As Vodafone cost more and offered less data we chose to go for Orange. We were satisfied with the internet speed the majority of the time whilst in Cairo.

Transport in Cairo

We opted for an Uber from the airport to our accommodation and quickly realised that the traffic in Cairo is notoriously heavy. Often, the traffic came to a standstill, with frequent beeping adding to the chaos. Consequently, we found ourselves spending most of our time at cafes and restaurants within walking distance. It’s worth noting that when booking an Uber, most number plates are written only in the Arabic alphabet and numerals. This made it challenging to identify our Uber using the number plates most of the time. While local buses were a common sight, we didn’t use them during our stay. Cairo’s attractions are spread out, making it appear less walkable compared to some other cities. Crossing roads posed a challenge, with many people disregarding traffic signals. The driving style in Cairo is notably different from the West, characterised by three lanes accommodating four cars, constant lane weaving, and driving in the middle of two lanes. Despite this seemingly chaotic driving style, we surprisingly did not witness any accidents. As a passenger, I felt safer in Cairo compared to experiences in Saudi Arabia, Malaysia, or Indonesia. Despite the driving style feeling ‘reckless,’ there was a discernible flow and order to the chaos on the roads. I would not recommend renting a car here unless you are familiar with the unique driving style.

Accommodation in Cairo

We opted to stay in a hostel with a private room in Downtown Cairo due to its location and affordable price. However, upon arrival, we discovered that the hostel was situated on the 2nd and 3rd floors of a seemingly rundown residential building. To our dismay, we were informed that only our reservation and not payment was made by card, and we could only pay for our stay in American dollars or Euros. Despite our intention to use Egyptian Pounds, we were told that this local currency was not acceptable, with an additional 25% charge if we insisted on paying in Egyptian Pounds. Furthermore, we were surprised to learn about a 15% tax not included in the online price; this information was conveyed in an email sent after our booking. Frustrated, we considered leaving and finding alternative accommodation. After prolonged discussions, we were offered the option to transfer the money with an additional 5% charge, but eventually, we were permitted to transfer the amount without the extra charge. Upon entering the room, we found it to be spacious but lacking essential items such as toilet paper and towels, which we had to request and wait for. Additionally, there was no duvet provided; while understandable in the summer, it felt inadequate during December when temperatures dropped significantly. Due to these experiences, we are hesitant to book hostels again, despite the economical pricing. Furthermore, the room lacked soundproofing, allowing us to hear noises from the corridor and the street outside. This, combined with the large number of people in the dorms, made us feel uneasy about leaving any valuables in the room, contributing to an overall sense of insecurity.

Restaurants in Cairo

We discovered several cafes and restaurants in Downtown Cairo that were conveniently within walking distance of our accommodation. The prices were notably more affordable compared to our experiences in various countries throughout the year, including Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, and Saudi Arabia.

The staff at these establishments were consistently friendly and welcoming, offering a variety of good food options. Egyptian cuisine, in particular, stood out to us as healthier and more aligned with our taste preferences than the cuisines of the other countries we had visited this year. However, one downside was the extended wait times for food and drinks in some places. Additionally, a common issue we encountered in cafes and restaurants was people smoking indoors, which negatively impacted our experience due to my sensitivity to cigarette odours.

On a positive note, one highlight across all the cafes and restaurants we visited was a beverage called “hot cider.” Unlike the alcoholic cider in England, this version typically consisted of hot orange or apple juice with a cinnamon stick, anise, and other ingredients. Some menus even referred to it as an “immune booster,” a description that resonated well with its soothing and aromatic qualities.

Attractions in Cairo

The primary attraction that everyone associates with Cairo is the Great Pyramids of Giza, situated not in Cairo itself but in Giza, approximately 45 minutes away. However, Cairo boasts a wealth of other attractions, including museums housing artefacts from the pyramids. The city is home to numerous ancient mosques, although regrettably, we did not have the chance to visit them on this trip. Cairo features Islamic Cairo, one of the oldest sections of the city, and Coptic Cairo, an even older area. It’s worth noting that Cairo was initially a Coptic Christian city before becoming a Muslim-majority nation during the Islamic era. I believe there is a wealth of history in Cairo that we did not have the opportunity to fully explore or learn about during this trip.

Great Pyramid of Giza, Saqqara and Memphis tour

We opted for a day trip from Cairo, encompassing visits to the Great Pyramid of Giza, Saqqara, and Memphis. This trip included being picked up from our accommodation with a private care and guide and lunch was included. We did have to pay an additional fee for entrances to all the sites we saw.

Our first stop was Saqqara, home to the Step Pyramid of Djoser, considered the first pyramid built 5,000 years ago. Comprising six ‘step’ levels, this pyramid’s unique design merits further research to understand its evolution into the familiar pyramid shape and its intended purpose which I recommend you do. Constructed over a span of six years, the stones were transported by boat from Aswan near Luxor during the annual three-month drought.

Next, we explored the city of Memphis, believed to be the first city. The open-air museum of Memphis houses the Colossus of Ramesses II, a remarkable 83-ton limestone statue laying horizontally at 10 feet tall. Despite missing the bottom part of the legs/feet, likely never found, the colossus showcases impressive size and symmetry. Believed to have been crafted during Ramesses II’s lifetime due to the arms and hands being positioned by his sides.

Our final destination was the city of Giza, housing the Great Pyramid of Giza, eight additional pyramids, and the iconic Great Sphinx of Giza. As the site of the largest pyramid among Egypt’s 109 pyramids, the Great Pyramid of Giza is renowned worldwide. Constructed over 20 years, the pyramid’s bottom blocks weigh a staggering 15 tons each. Our guide shared insights into the transportation of these blocks from Aswan by boat during the annual three-month drought and their subsequent ascent up the pyramid, likely aided by Ox. The sheer size, complexity, and symmetry of the pyramids continue to captivate us, leaving these ancient structures shrouded in mystery even today.

Shopping in Cairo

As we strolled to dinner on our first night in Cairo, the sudden drop in temperature caught us off guard. Passing a shop selling body warmers and jackets, I decided to purchase an expensive looking oversized, long men’s body warmer. When we asked about the price, my husband and I had to triple-check to ensure we heard correctly. Prepared to haggle, we were pleasantly shocked to discover how inexpensive the item was, making the term ‘bargain’ seem like an understatement.

As we spent more time in the city, we realised the overall affordability of clothing, shoes, and food. I would highly recommend doing your shopping in Cairo and leaving some space in your suitcase when travelling here. In comparison to other more popular tourist destinations in Egypt, Cairo stands out as a particularly budget-friendly option.

Culture in Cairo

I was taken aback by the way people in Cairo dressed and carried themselves, especially when comparing it to Morocco, the other Muslim North African country I have visited. I didn’t anticipate such a Western influence in the appearance and behaviour of individuals in Cairo. Having recently spent two months in Saudi Arabia, where we predominantly saw women in Hijabs and Abayas and men in Thobes, I expected a similar cultural context here.

Despite my initial surprise, I found the Egyptian people to be friendly, helpful, and generally content. Their hospitality surpassed that of some other Muslim-majority countries we have visited, creating a welcoming atmosphere. I sensed a lack of excessive pride among Egyptians, which, coupled with their friendly nature, made Cairo a place we could envision living in the future.

On a sombre note, I was struck by the presence of homeless individuals in Cairo. Interestingly, they didn’t actively interact with people or solicit things. Additionally, we encountered many elders sitting on the streets selling tissues or offering shoe-cleaning services. Notably, they didn’t hassle anyone and expressed genuine appreciation for even small contributions, ensuring they either provided tissues or cleaned shoes to avoid the perception of begging or seeking charity. I found this dignified approach admirable and another reason why we developed a fondness for Cairo.

Mosques and Female prayer areas in Cairo

I was surprised by the scarcity of mosques in Downtown Cairo and the limited availability of prayer areas in public spaces. To address this, I always carry a small, lightweight travel prayer mat, allowing me to create a space for prayer wherever necessary. Fortunately, in Cairo, there is no concern about receiving odd looks when choosing to pray in public, which I appreciate. During our day trip to Giza and the journey to the airport, I noticed many mosques, indicating that the distribution of mosques varies across different areas of Cairo. It seemed that the specific location where we stayed had a lower concentration of mosques compared to the city as a whole.

A notable observation was the coexistence of mosques and churches, often built side by side. This harmonious arrangement serves as a positive example of how different religions can peacefully coexist. I believe this atmosphere stems from Muslim-majority countries welcoming individuals from diverse religious backgrounds without subjecting them to persecution. Unfortunately, we witness the opposite scenario in some non-Muslim countries, where Muslims may face persecution. I hope that other religions and nations can draw inspiration from such examples of harmony.

Weather in Cairo

Cairo in December turned out to be colder than I anticipated. Having come from Saudi Arabia, I didn’t expect a temperature drop of 10 to 15 degrees Celsius to feel as extreme as it did. The weather in the mornings and evenings hovered around 15 degrees Celsius, while daytime temperatures reached approximately 20 degrees Celsius.

I was surprised to see most people wearing jumpers and coats. To stay warm, I purchased a thick, long men’s body warmer on the first evening and layered leggings and tops under my abaya. My husband also transitioned from t-shirts, shorts, and thobes to wearing joggers, jumpers, and hoodies.

Personally, I found the December temperature quite comfortable. Although significantly colder than what we had been accustomed to in the past six months, it served as a suitable introduction to the colder climate we would soon experience upon returning to England. The notable variation in temperature between the summer and winter months in Cairo is intriguing, highlighting the substantial change that occurs during this period.

Conclusion of Cairo

I was pleasantly surprised by the affordability of Cairo compared to Southeast Asia, the Middle East, and Europe, making it a highly budget-friendly travel destination. The city offers a rich history with the pyramids merely scratching the surface of the historical sites to explore.

In contrast to some other capital cities I’ve visited, Cairo, despite its bustling atmosphere, exudes a sense of calm. It seems that people here don’t lead as fast-paced a life, which is refreshing. Additionally, I felt more comfortable and secure walking the streets of Cairo compared to some other countries we visited this year. The absence of strangers trying to initiate conversations and a prevalent sense of respect rooted in religion and culture contributed to this positive experience.

Considering these factors, including its status as a Muslim-majority country, affordability, and the favourable attitude of the people, I believe Egypt is a place we could potentially consider relocating to in the future.