Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia

Exploring Saudi Arabia was a unique experience for me, marking my first visit to the Middle East. The main purpose of my journey, like many other Muslims, was to perform Umrah and witness the Holy land of Mecca and Medina. Saudi Arabia, a country steeped in culture and history, opened its doors to tourism in September 2019, coinciding with the implementation of Vision 2030—an ambitious plan shaping the nation’s future. I chose to commence my travels in Jeddah, then proceeded to Medina before concluding my journey in Mecca. This sequence allowed me to build up to the most significant part of my trip, reserving the destination of utmost importance for the grand finale.

Table of Contents

  1. Saudi Arabia
  2. Jeddah
  3. Medina
  4. Makkah

Jeddah

Travel to Jeddah

Arriving in Jeddah, my journey from Southeast Asia included a layover in Kuala Lumpur and a 10-hour flight with AirAsiaX. As I waited at the gate, I observed groups of Malaysians boarding with matching lanyards and hand luggage—soon realizing they were all embarking on the pilgrimage to perform Umrah. The sight of elderly individuals, some struggling to walk, made me reflect on the significance of their journey, likely the culmination of years of saving for this profound and meaningful experience. Despite being much younger, I felt immensely blessed to share this travel moment with them.

However, my expectations for the long-haul flight were met with a reality check. The budget airline did not provide complimentary food, beverages, or in-flight entertainment. This experience taught me a valuable lesson about avoiding budget airlines for extended journeys, a mistake I wouldn’t repeat.

Upon landing in Jeddah, the atmosphere quickly shifted. Pilgrims in their Ihram clothing, ready for Umrah, created a tangible sense of being in Saudi Arabia—a dream come true for me. Exiting the airport, the transition was abrupt as we encountered individuals offering taxi services. Amid confusion about money exchange, finding a cash machine, and obtaining a local SIM card, we felt frustrated. Despite the challenges, we eventually secured some local currency and a SIM card.

A notable highlight was encountering a station selling Zam Zam water for the first time as we looked for taxis. Navigating through Jeddah airport, we noticed areas where improvements could benefit incoming tourists—clearer signs, accessible money exchange services, and straightforward SIM card shops. As Saudi Arabia embraces more tourists, I hope these essential facilities are enhanced to offer a smoother arrival experience. Upon flying out of Jeddah airport again, I am now aware Jeddah has different terminals and your experience will be differ depending which terminal you are using.

Visa in Saudi Arabia

Arriving in Jeddah without a visa, we opted to obtain a visa on arrival, although another option is applying for a visa online before travelling. We encountered some challenges in Lombok Indonesia due to not having pre-applied for a visa, and we had to prove our ability to obtain a visa upon arrival. It’s crucial to check visa requirements and carry proof from government websites to avoid complications during travel.

Upon arrival, an airport staff member informed us about the visa on arrival process and welcomed us with a warm “Welcome to Saudi Arabia.”This contrasted with the often hostile experiences I had in other airports. The visa on arrival process was swift, and only card payments were accepted. I recommend having more than one card in case of payment issues, as cash payments are not accepted. One notable aspect is Saudi Arabia’s 90-day multiple-entry visa, valid for a year. This unique feature allows you to for example stay for 30 days initially and still have 11 months to use the remaining 60 days—a flexibility I hadn’t encountered before.

Accommodation in Jeddah

Our apartment was situated in the Al Samer district, a choice based on our preference for accommodation features such as cleanliness, modernity, a well-equipped kitchen, workspace, and some outdoor area. The decision also took into account proximity to amenities, including a supermarket, restaurants, and a shopping mall, all within walking distance. Additionally, we discovered male and female gyms just a few minutes away, adding to the convenience.

During our search for accommodation, we noticed that many places did not include Wi-Fi, a crucial factor for remote work. Although we had encountered slow or unreliable Wi-Fi in places that did provide it, we often relied on data from our local SIM cards instead. Accommodation prices appeared relatively high compared to Southeast Asia or Europe but were more affordable than in neighbouring Middle Eastern countries like Oman, UAE, or Qatar. The most cost-effective options seemed to be monthly apartment rentals, offering discounts of up to 60% when booking for a month.

Driving in Jeddah

Since we had previous experience renting cars and scooters in various countries, our initial plan in Jeddah was to do the same. However, finding affordable car rentals proved to be challenging. Given that the gym and supermarket were conveniently located within a 5-minute walk, we opted for Uber or Careem when engaging in weekend activities.

After just a day of exploring parts of Jeddah and taking a few taxis, we realised that this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We witnessed accidents almost every time we were on the road, with our drivers narrowly avoiding collisions on several occasions. The high number of damaged cars due to accidents was also noticeable. In hindsight, we were relieved not to have rented a vehicle and thus avoided liability for potential damages or accidents. While using Uber or Careem daily could become costly, we hope that Jeddah will develop improved transportation links, such as buses and trains, in the future.

Another observation was the lack of signalling by drivers and their turning habits, reminiscent of larger vehicles like trucks. This underscores the need for pedestrians to stay vigilant when walking and crossing roads. Jeddah may not be the most pedestrian-friendly city, as zebra crossings don’t necessarily influence drivers to stop.

Sim cards in Jeddah

Due to working remotely and facing the absence of Wi-Fi in our apartment, having a local SIM card with a substantial data allowance became crucial for us. On the day of our arrival, we visited the nearby shopping mall, where two major SIM card providers, Mobility and Salam, had outlets. After inquiring with both, we discovered that there are different SIM cards and data plans for locals and tourists. Unfortunately, the plans for tourists offered significantly less data, with a separation between data for social media and general browsing. The inability to secure a plan providing a large data allowance for a reasonable price, solely due to our tourist status, proved to be exceptionally frustrating and a novel experience for us. Eventually, we settled for SIM cards from Mobility, which incurred a much higher monthly cost compared to our iPhonecontracts back home. Additionally, the inconvenience of forgetting our passports in the apartment and lacking our visa numbers necessitated a return trip to our apartment before obtaining our SIM cards.

Female only gym in Jeddah

Experiencing a female-only gym with an accompanying swimming pool was a novel and liberating encounter for me. Witnessing the transformation of women from wearing black abayas and hijabs on the streets to wearing leggings and tops within the gym environment felt empowering. The ability to feel at ease in a gym exclusively for women, wearing comfortable workout attire without concerns of modesty due to the presence of men, was a refreshing change. Despite the gym’s limitations in terms of equipment and size, the advantages far outweigh the drawbacks in my perspective. I express the hope that more places and countries will adopt the concept of female-only gyms, providing a supportive environment that encourages women who may lack confidence or feel insecure to participate in fitness activities.

Supermarkets in Jeddah

Supermarkets in Jeddah pleasantly surpassed my expectations. The prices were comparable to or even lower than those in “western” supermarkets I frequented in Kuala Lumpur or Indonesia, yet the variety exceeded my previous experiences. Shopping in a supermarket where I didn’t have to scrutinise whether an item was Halal and could access a fresh selection of meat, cheese, olives, and more was a significant positive. This aspect contributes to my perception of Jeddah as a potential place for long-term residence. Given that obtaining nutritious food aligns with my lifestyle values, and I predominantly prepare my meals, having access to a diverse range of nutritional organic items is crucial. While certain items might be pricier than those in stores back in England due to importation taxes, the local shops offer a comprehensive selection, ensuring that everything is 100% Halal.

Restaurants in Jeddah

Saudis have a deep appreciation for food and dining out, and Jeddah offers an extensive array of restaurant choices. These range from fast food and local cuisine to international dishes and high-end dining establishments. Personally, my priority when travelling is to enjoy high-quality, healthy, and nutritious meals whenever possible. However, I found the restaurants in Jeddah to be on the expensive side, and I was taken aback when presented with the bill. The overall value for money did not seem optimal, considering the sizable Saudi families who often dine out.

Despite this, there was one restaurant that left a lasting impression on me—an Iraqi restaurant. The food was exceptional, the service was prompt, and complimentary items were provided both before and after our meal. This particular establishment felt like it offered good value for money. It’s worth noting that non-chain restaurants, like this Iraqi gem, might prioritise their reputation and maintain a higher standard of service, contributing to a more satisfying dining experience.

Coffee in Jeddah

Saudis, known for their love of coffee and late-night coffee sessions, certainly live up to their reputation. Unlike my usual routine of having coffee in the morning and perhaps one in the midday at the latest, Arab coffee culture revolves around enjoying coffee well into the evening. This contrast was noticeable even in Bali, where Arab patrons filled coffee shops at 8 pm, making our quest for decaf coffee a challenging task.

The coffee culture in Saudi Arabia is truly exceptional, with consistently high-quality brews that have not disappointed us anywhere we’ve sampled them. The aroma of premium coffee wafting through the air as we passed by coffee shops is an experience that words cannot capture—it must be personally encountered.

Attractions in Jeddah

Jeddah boasts a diverse array of activities to explore. From vibrant markets and the historic Al-Balad old town to the scenic promenade along the Corniche road, a mosque perched on the edge of the sea, an aquarium, the world’s tallest fountain, and both indoor and outdoor amusement parks, there’s a wealth of attractions to discover. The city also offers a rich culinary scene, featuring many outstanding restaurants and high-end malls.

However, we found that certain excursions we were interested in, such as desert trips, quad biking, camel riding, hiking, or boat trips, were notably more expensive compared to similar activities in other destinations we’ve visited. This included a comparison with prices in other Middle Eastern countries. This pricing discrepancy might be limiting the potential for attracting more visitors to partake in these activities. I hope that over time, there will be adjustments to make these excursions more accessible and appealing to a broader audience.

Al-Balad Jeddah

Al-Balad, Jeddah’s old town, is a treasure trove of historical charm. Wandering through its narrow backstreets felt like a journey back in time, and I appreciate the efforts taken to preserve this distinctive area. The architecture, characterised by wooden balconies and narrow streets, sets it apart from the rest of Jeddah, creating a unique ambiance with scattered shops.

Exploring the souks of Al-Balad reveals a vibrant marketplace offering traditional thobes, abayas, dates, perfumes, and a street lined with shops showcasing gold. The lively atmosphere captures the essence of the area, making it a must-visit to experience the authentic, old Jeddah.

We stumbled upon a hidden cafe nestled among the historic buildings, featuring Arabian music. Located on the second-floor rooftop, the cafe provided panoramic views of the surrounding structures. Enjoying local tea in this serene setting allowed us to immerse ourselves in the rich history of the area.

Al Rahman floating mosque Jeddah

As we strolled towards the promenade along the Corniche Road, we encountered the Al Rahman Mosque. The sun was gracefully setting, casting an orange glow across the sky, and the azan for the maghrib prayer echoed around us. This mosque, both externally and internally, exhibited a captivating beauty. Even for non-Muslims, I would recommend witnessing this architectural gem, especially during sunset. The enchanting view continued to unfold after the prayer, with the sun descending into the sea. Positioned at the beginning of the promenade, the mosque offers a dual visual delight. It’s worth noting that finding a suitable Uber pickup location after exploring the promenade posed a challenge, as road access for vehicles is limited to the start and end points of the promenade.

Culture in Jeddah

There are several aspects of Saudi culture that I appreciate. The distinctive attire, with women elegantly adorned in black abayas and men in crisp white thobes, creates a unique and visually appealing cultural landscape. The segregation of genders in places such as gyms and the provision of family areas in restaurants for added privacy reflect a cultural sensitivity that I find commendable. I observed a profound respect for individuals, particularly women, which added to the overall positive cultural experience. The emphasis on family, evident in the prevalence of families with all their children in public spaces like malls, restaurants, and supermarkets, struck a chord with me. The family-centric culture is further reinforced by the abundance of kids’ play areas and lively parks in the evening, creating a warm and vibrant atmosphere.

A notable cultural difference that we adapted to was the late-night lifestyle. In contrast to our early riser routine, the local life seems to come alive in the afternoon and evening, with many establishments opening after 2-4 pm. This shift meant that Jeddah felt relatively quiet during the day on weekends, prompting us to adjust our schedule and stay up later to fully experience the bustling city that truly comes to life at night. The sight of children playing in the park opposite our apartment until midnight on weekends was a testament to the vibrant nocturnal energy of the city.

I believe that Saudi Arabia is undergoing significant cultural transformations, and these changes will likely continue alongside the development initiatives outlined in Vision 2030.

Female areas in mosques and prayer areas in Jeddah.

The experience of visiting new mosques in Jeddah was deeply meaningful, especially with the inclusion of dedicated sections for female worshippers. Stepping into a mosque anywhere in the world and knowing that people are praying in the same way, in the same language, creates an indescribable sense of unity and connection, one that resonates profoundly with me as a Muslim. However, the prayer areas in other locations, such as large shopping malls, proved to be less accommodating compared to experiences in Malaysia and Indonesia. The difficulty in finding prayer areas, compounded by the lack of clear signage, was a notable challenge. The separation of male and female prayer areas on different floors and in different locations within these venues often meant that my husband and I had to split up, navigate independently to find the prayer areas, and then attempt to reunite afterward. The available prayer spaces were frequently inadequate in size, adding to the overall challenge.

One positive exception to this trend was the airport, which featured abundant and easily accessible prayer areas for both males and females. The simplicity of locating prayer spaces in the airport highlighted an aspect that I wished was more prevalent throughout Jeddah.

Weather in Jeddah

Arriving in Jeddah at the beginning of November, we encountered temperatures in the mid-30 degrees Celsius. Personally, I find it difficult to envision being in Jeddah during the summer months when the heat must be overwhelming. Based on our experience, I believe the optimal time to visit is between November and March. During our stay, we experienced three days of rain. While the rain did not persist throughout the day, it was heavy when it occurred. In the aftermath, the streets were inundated with water for a couple of days. It seems that Saudi Arabia, unaccustomed to regular rainfall, lacks sufficient drainage infrastructure on the streets. What to wear in Jeddah and Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia, being a conservative Muslim country, differs in cultural expectations compared to other Muslim nations I have visited, such as Malaysia, Indonesia, Morocco, Egypt, or Turkey.

Observing tourists or foreigners in malls or the old town, I noticed that most individuals wore jeans and T-shirts, with some opting for abayas. I would advise wearing abayas for females and thobes for men during your time here. This is for several reasons: first, to show respect for the local culture; second, to help you blend in and feel more like a local, as abayas and thobes are comfortable and suitable for the climate; lastly, to avoid drawing unnecessary attention, as locals may not be accustomed to seeing individuals dressed in Western or non-modest attire.

If you find abayas and thobes too much, you could opt for loose, flowy trousers and tops. However, I still recommend trying out traditional attire to fully immerse yourself in the culture.

Jeddah Conclusion

Jeddah offers many positive aspects and is currently undergoing expansion in various areas and attractions. As a vibrant city, it strikes a balance between not being overly quiet or excessively busy. Positioned along the seafront with well-established transportation links via the airport and train services, Jeddah has much to offer. During my one-month stay, I enjoyed the experience and could envision living here. While it may not be a typical holiday destination, I see it more as a pleasant place to pass through. Jeddah strikes me as a family-oriented city, making it a suitable recommendation for families considering relocation despite the relatively high cost of living. I may consider returning to Jeddah in the future, a sentiment I don’t express about many places I’ve visited.

Medina

Travel to Medina

We chose the Haramain high-speed train for our journey from Jeddah to Medina, finding it to be a significantly quicker option compared to driving, which typically takes around four hours. The train covers the distance in under two hours, reaching speeds of up to 300 km/h. In the week leading up to our trip, I felt a bit nervous while booking our train tickets. I read about strict luggage size restrictions and weight limits on the website. According to the information, larger luggage had to be sent through an external company for an additional charge. Several blog posts also confirmed this, and knowing the tendency to accumulate items during travel, I was concerned about adhering to weight limits. The website indicated security measures similar to those at airports, including luggage scanning.

Upon arriving at the Jeddah airport train station, we used QR codes from our tickets on our phones to access the station. Surprisingly, the security area, where luggage was supposed to be scanned, was closed, and no one mentioned anything about our luggage size or weight. We were allowed to board the train 30 minutes before departure, settling into our designated seats from our tickets. I found the Economy seats to be more spacious than those on other trains I’ve experienced. We even had tablets that accommodated our laptops, and a charging port was conveniently placed between us. The train departed precisely on time, a rare occurrence in comparison to trains in other countries.

Shortly after departure, an announcement was made about a supplication that Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) used to make when travelling. Upon reaching Medina, we opted for an Uber to our hotel, which took only 15 minutes.

Accommodation in Medina

In Medina, we opted for a hotel that included breakfast in the package. Several factors influenced our decision to choose a hotel room over an apartment: it proved more cost-effective, the added benefit of having breakfast included, and the convenience of being within walking distance to Masjid Nabawi. Our chosen hotel fell into the mid-price range and received good ratings. While hotels in closer proximity to Masjid Nabawi were pricier, we found the additional cost didn’t justify the slight time savings of just 15 minutes in our daily journey.

Transport in Medina

While exploring Medina, we relied on services like Uber or Careem. I didn’t notice any local buses, but there’s a tourist bus available—a double-decker with an open roof. This bus conveniently stops at all major attractions in Medina, considering that the distances between them are too far to cover on foot. Passengers are provided with headsets on the bus, allowing them to hear information about the various attractions in multiple languages. This flexibility makes it a great option, as you can decide whether to disembark at a particular stop or continue on the journey.

Restaurants in Medina

On our first night in Medina, we sought out a restaurant for dinner after the Isha prayer around Masjid Nabawi. Unfortunately, all the nearby restaurants within walking distance turned out to be either fast food or offered unhealthy options. We discovered that restaurants with good food choices in a mid-price range were located about a 15 to 20-minute drive away, situated around the ring road of Medina.

Given the limited space for expansion in the centre of Medina, many ‘good’ or ‘modern’ shops, restaurants, and malls are strategically placed around the ring road. After our initial dining disappointment, we stumbled upon a meal prep shop where we purchased meals for the next two days. These meals, complete with macros, cost us significantly less than dining in restaurants. Additionally, this approach spared us the expense of taxis and unnecessary travel time. Notably, there are multiple healthy meal prep restaurants in Medina that offer a convenient alternative to unhealthy fast food.

A few days into our stay, we explored lunch options through the Hunger Station app. It’s important to note that ordering is not available within the inner ring road around Masjid Nabawi. Instead, we would place orders to a location just outside the ring road, a convenient 10-minute walk away to pick up our food.

Attractions in Medina

Whilst we were in Medina seeing and spending time at Masjid Nabawi was our priority and this is where we spent the majority of our time. We also visited Masjid Quba, we did not visit any other history sites and I hope we get to visit them in the future.

Masjid Nabawi Medina

The anticipation of visiting Prophet Muhammad’s (PBUH) mosque, Masjid Nabawi, led to high expectations, yet the actual experience surpassed them in both beauty and intensity. Recognizable from a distance by its towering structures, the mosque draws a constant stream of worshippers, especially around prayer times. On our first night, arriving at the gates about 20 minutes before Isha prayer, we encountered a sea of people heading towards various prayer areas under umbrellas. The sections, primarily designated for females, were already full. Despite the challenge, my husband found or made space for prayer inside the Masjid, but I was unable to join the carpeted sections outside and resorted to using my travel prayer mat joining next to a line of women already seated waiting for congregation prayer. The next morning, heading for Fajr prayer an hour early, we observed an even larger crowd converging on the mosque. Despite arriving 45 minutes before Fajr, the prayer areas inside were already occupied. I prayed outside under the umbrellas, witnessing a beautiful sight as the azan echoed, and the umbrellas opened.

Determined to secure a spot inside, I arrived an hour early for Dhuhr prayer, entering through gate 12. Often overlooked online, this entrance provided access to a second prayer area for females, allowing me to marvel at the mosque’s stunning architecture. Even entering an hour early, finding a spot in the female section became challenging 30 minutes before prayer, emphasising the importance of arriving early.

Recommendations for those wishing to pray at Masjid Nabawi include arriving very early for Fajr and an hour before Dhuhr, Asr, or Maghrib for a good space. Finding a spot for Isha may be challenging as many people stay inside from Maghrib to Isha. After my initial attempts to pray inside, I came to appreciate the unique experience of praying outside, surrounded by massive umbrellas, a gentle morning breeze, and sunlight filtering through.

Inside the mosque, one encounters not only stunning architecture but also rose-scented prayer rugs, Quran shelves with printed copies in two fonts and sizes, and Zam Zam water stations. Portable seats are available for those who cannot prostrate on the floor or stand. Groups engaged in Quran reading and teaching sessions are also a common sight. Ample male and female toilets and wudu areas are on the grounds, but post-prayer times witness long queues and less-than-ideal cleanliness.

Given the crowd, I recommend agreeing on a meeting point before entering the male and female areas. After prayers, the mosque often hosts Janazah (funeral prayers), a profound and beautiful experience, reminding us of the vast number of worshippers engaging in these prayers and the collective reward they receive.

Masjid Nabawi, with a capacity for 600,000 worshippers (though likely more with the outdoor congregation), remains a powerful and awe-inspiring place of worship.

Masjid Quba Medina

The Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) once stated, ‘Those who purify themselves at home and follow by coming to the Masjid Quba to pray will have a reward like that of the Umrah pilgrimage.’ This profound saying fueled our desire to visit Masjid Quba, making it the second mosque on our itinerary in Medina. The potential reward, even for praying just two Sunnah rakats here, is immense. Masjid Quba is not only associated with substantial spiritual benefits but is also recognized as the first mosque ever built in the world. Erected on the initial day of Prophet Muhammad’s (PBUH) emigration to Medina, the mosque, despite its relative simplicity, holds a unique charm. Unlike my expectations of a grand structure, the mosque, painted in white, stands gracefully. We visited around 10 am, and finding space to see and pray inside was not an issue for both my husband and me. While it may appear simpler compared to other mosques, including Masjid Nabawi, its beauty lies in its unpretentiousness.

Shopping in Medina

There are a lot of shops located in the centre of Medina around Masjid Nabawi. You will find shops with thobes, abayas, dates, sweets, tasbihs, gold and much more. We bought thobes from a shop close to Masjid Nabawi and the prices were cheaper than the same quality thobe we got from Al-Balad in Jeddah. You will have plenty of shop options whatever you are looking for.

Culture in Medina

I find it difficult to get a feeling of the culture in Medina as most people you see are worshipers from all around the world. I think this makes Medina one of the most diverse places you will ever go alongside Makkah. I love the mix of ethnicities here and meeting sisters from other parts of the world. It is interesting to see people from different ethnicities, which have different: behaviour, manners, type of clothing and much more. Despite all the differences there is one thing we all have in common, which is Islam. I think as a result of these factors the locals are open to everyone and I do not feel a sense of hierarchy which I felt in Jeddah.

Female areas in mosques and prayer areas in Medina

As I previously discussed in the sections about Masjid Nabawi and Masjid Quba, Medina is notably crowded, particularly during prayer times. The overwhelming number of worshippers exceeds the capacity inside Masjid Nabawi, necessitating early arrival for salah or resorting to the outside prayer areas, which are also bustling. This is an uncommon issue in many other places, but the constraints on expanding the interior of these mosques are beyond their control.

Personally, I didn’t mind praying in the outside areas, but it’s worth noting that men often have more space inside Masjid Nabawi compared to females. In other locations, such an arrangement may be expected, as mosques typically accommodate fewer female worshippers. However, in Medina and Mecca, where at least 40% of worshippers are female, this dynamic presents unique challenges.

Another notable issue is the presence of many elderly, disabled, or pregnant individuals during prayers. Addressing this concern would involve designating specific sections for these vulnerable groups in the outside prayer areas. As these areas open up, a lack of order becomes apparent, with people rushing in, potentially endangering those who are more vulnerable. Moreover, there is a notable absence of organisation, with worshippers failing to fill up spaces from the front, contributing to disorderly seating arrangements. While managing large crowds can be challenging, creating and maintaining order, especially for vulnerable groups, is crucial for ensuring a safe and respectful prayer environment.

What to wear in Medina

Medina is a city mostly visited by Muslim worshippers and I did not see one female who was not wearing an abaya and a hijab. I think even as a non muslim tourist you have to follow this dress code here unlike in Jeddah.

Weather in Medina

The weather in Medina feels a few degrees lower in the day than in Jeddah. This makes it a lot easier and bearable to walk around during the day. I did find it cold in the mornings between 4.30-7.30. I think the temperature drops quite significantly in the night, or at least this is how it feels alongside some wind, maybe making it feel colder than it really is compared to the day. I would potentially bring additional layers if you will be outside early in the morning.

What to watch out for in Medina

I want to share an experience that, while uncomfortable, is essential to raise awareness. While walking to the female prayer area in Masjid Nabawi, I was approached by a man and his silent wife. Claiming to be from Singapore, despite lacking the typical accent and features, he informed me that his family had gone to Makkah, and both his cash and cards were stolen. Expressing hunger and an inability to afford food, I was taken aback and decided to assist them. After discussing this with my husband, we encountered more people with a similar story.

Upon further investigation online, I discovered countless similar stories, all indicating a potential scam. Individuals in Masjid Nabawi and Masjid al-Haram reported being approached with the same narrative. Some even expressed anger if they didn’t receive enough money or none at all. The advice shared by others was to respond by saying you will pray and make dua for them, and if you choose, offer help. Regardless of the truth of their stories, your actions and good deeds would still yield reward. Discerning the truth in these situations can be challenging, given the consistent nature of the stories. The common theme involves claims of lost or stolen valuables, with the police allegedly unwilling to assist. It’s important to note that Saudi Arabia is a very safe Muslim country, adding scepticism to these narratives. Ultimately, how you choose to interpret and act upon this information is a personal decision.

Medina Conclusion

Medina is one of the most special and memorable places I have been. The peace I have felt whilst being here is one you can not describe. I will definitely be returning here in the future if I have the opportunity to. Spending time in Masjid Nawabi and the calmness you feel while here is one which can not be described. Medina is very different to Makkah and if I am fortunate enough to return I will prioritise spending more time in Medina which I find to be more family friendly due to the slower pace here and much smaller crowds and area.

Makkah

Travel to Makkah

We travelled to Mecca by train from Medina, choosing a non-stop option that took a little over 2 hours. Despite being more expensive than the train journey from Jeddah to Medina, costing 1⁄3 more per person, it offered a quicker and more convenient option. Alternatively, some opt for a taxi or coach from Medina to Mecca, which takes around 4 hours. If you’re travelling with three or more people, a taxi may be a more cost-effective choice, although the travel time is doubled. Many people also travel directly from Jeddah to Mecca by train or taxi, both taking approximately 1 hour, especially for performing Umrah before heading to Medina afterward.

Accommodation in Makkah

The accommodation we chose was located in an area called Thaker or Thaker City, still under development with hotels, restaurants, and a mall being built. Our hotel, being one of the first to open in this area, isn’t within close walking distance to Masjid Al Haram. While a shuttle bus service is available, departing approximately every half an hour and taking 10 minutes to reach the shuttle bus area near Masjid Al Haram, the lack of a timetable and the distant drop-off point made this option less convenient. Booking a hotel requiring a shuttle service may result in spending more time and energy on transportation and less time in Masjid Al-Haram and the centre of Makkah. Opting to pay extra for breakfast compared to finding breakfast elsewhere every day. However, the breakfast, while nice, was repetitive and not tailored for handling a large volume of people. The room featured a comfortable bed, along with amenities like a kettle, fridge, and iron. Nevertheless, it lacked certain expected amenities, especially for a hotel associated with a globally recognized brand. Surprisingly, the room felt more soundproof than the one we had in Medina.

Before booking a hotel in a non-central location, think twice, especially if it’s not within walking distance to Masjid Al Haram. If returning in the future, we would consider choosing a more expensive hotel in an ideal location, even if it means spending less time at the hotel and maximising the time spent at our destination, unlike this trip. Due to the hotel’s location and commute times, we were unable to follow our planned itinerary as efficiently as we did in Medina.

Transport in Makkah

The only means of transport we used were the free shuttle bus from our hotel and Uber/Careem. However, the buses were unreliable, and the drop-off location was not ideal. Uber and Careem were more challenging to access in Makkah compared to Medina. We experienced longer waiting times and often ended up haggling with regular taxis. Despite spotting local buses and bus stops around Makkah, none of them served our area.

Restaurants in Makkah

The restaurants around Masjid Al Haram and in the clock tower predominantly offer fast food and unhealthy options. Despite finding a restaurant around a 10-minute drive from our hotel with seemingly healthier choices, we were disappointed by the low quality and high prices. Makkah lacks diverse and healthy food options, making it challenging to find suitable places for dinner. Consequently, we opted to use the HungerStation app to order food to our hotel. During our extended stay, we found ourselves repeatedly ordering from the limited options that provided grilled meat. I hope that in the future, Makkah will have a more varied and health-conscious dining scene similar to what we experienced in Medina.

Masjid al-Haram

Masjid al-Haram surpassed my expectations in size, yet entering proved to be a lengthier process than anticipated. Ongoing expansions, geared towards accommodating more pilgrims, were underway. However, I doubt this expansion will significantly benefit those performing Umrah/Hajj and engaging in Tawaf or Sai, as the primary focus seems to be on creating more prayer space rather than accommodating those in the process of Umrah or desiring to pray in front of the Kaaba.

After returning for Dhuhr prayer, post-Umrah, we encountered limitations in accessing the Mataf area where the Kaaba is situated, given that we were not in Ihram clothing. Consequently, we prayed on the 2nd floor, designated for Tawaf, catching only a fleeting glimpse of the Kaaba as the azan began. Unbeknownst to me, congregational prayers in the Mataf area were reserved for Umrah performers. I later realised the rationale behind this rule, as the Mataf area during Umrah is already densely crowded. Some individuals would claim to be performing Umrah, wearing Ihram clothing, solely to pray in the Mataf area—an act I find selfish, disrupting those trying to perform Tawaf and complete their Umrah.

Praying on the 1st and 2nd floor Tawaf areas posed challenges due to congestion, particularly as guards shouted at those attempting to place prayer mats and block entrances. Despite the chaos, there were consistently 4 or 5 rows of men seated around the balconies upon our arrival. For females, it was more difficult, as we were pressed against the outer walls, with entering and exiting proving to be a crowded and busy affair.

Jummah prayer led us to a new extension still under construction. Despite the ongoing work, the area was bustling, hinting at its potential as a space for more worshippers once completed. Realising the difficulty of entering Masjid al-Haram during congregational prayers, we opted for the more peaceful outside areas surrounding the gates in front of the clock tower. Carrying a light, compact prayer mat is advisable when praying in these spaces.

In contrast to Medina, we noted a lack of seats for those unable to stand or prostrate during prayers. Accessing Zam Zam water proved challenging due to long queues, and despite the stations being labelled as male or female only, the female stations were often occupied by men. Additionally, we struggled to find shops selling the larger bottles of Zam Zam water that were readily available in Medina or Jeddah, possibly due to the overwhelming number of pilgrims.

Bathrooms and wudu stations outside the gates were accessible, but due to high demand, they were frequently busy, mirroring the situation in Masjid Nabawi. Upon our arrival, renovations were underway on the Kaaba, with scaffolding and a 10-foot border obstructing close access during our Umrah. This diminished some of the Kaaba’s beauty, depriving us of a close-up view of its size and the Black Stone. Unfortunately, there was no information on the expected duration of these renovations.

Reflecting on my initial naivety about seeing the Kaaba daily, I recognized that online information and stories can be misleading. The crowded nature of Masjid al-Haram, especially, means that viewing the Kaaba extensively is challenging, and human traffic is constant. Despite these challenges, praying in Masjid al-Haram carries immense spiritual reward, making it an unparalleled experience. Similar to Masjid Nabawi, Janazah prayer followed each congregational prayer, emphasising the transient nature of life. Familiarising yourself with the Janazah prayer is crucial, as it is a profound and impactful experience, prompting contemplation about life’s impermanence. As a vital tip, I recommend not rushing through Umrah, savouring the opportunity to see the Kaaba up close, offering all supplications (duas), and engaging in Sunnah prayers if possible.

Shopping in Makkah

Inside the clock tower, a plethora of shops awaits, catering to various budget ranges. From modest to high-end establishments, you can find an array of items such as thobes, abayas, prayer mats, perfume, dates, and more. Notably, the abaya shops within the shopping mall appeared somewhat uniform in their offerings, leaving me with a sense of repetition. Regrettably, our exploration didn’t extend much into the back streets, depriving us of insights into the diverse offerings of the local shops. Unfortunately, I cannot provide a price comparison with Medina, as we refrained from making any purchases in this area.

Culture in Makkah

Makkah buzzes with a diverse mix of people from around the world, all immersed in their pilgrimage. It’s fascinating to witness the varied ethnicities and their unique mannerisms, contributing to the lively tapestry of the city. Despite its bustling nature, Makkah, to me, doesn’t quite encapsulate the essence of the local culture as much as other places. The Saudis I met here maintained the same demeanour I encountered in Medina and Jeddah. Notably, the hardworking individuals from South and Southeast Asian countries, visible throughout the city, struck me as the backbone of the community.

What to wear in Makkah

Makkah can only be entered by Muslims, and I believe it’s a place where female visitors are expected to wear abayas and hijabs. During my visit, I didn’t see any women not adhering to this dress code, and I think wearing Western clothes here would be considered highly inappropriate and disrespectful. Fortunately, there are plenty of abaya shops in Makkah in case this isn’t part of your usual wardrobe

Performing Umrah

I am sharing my first and second Umrah experiences, shedding light on the steps involved in performing this sacred pilgrimage. It’s important to note that this account is based on my personal journey, and I encourage you to conduct your own research when you embark on this blessed pilgrimage.

During our first Umrah, we chose to stay in Jeddah, which is within a meeqat point. Driving out of the city to a meeqat point an hour away followed by driving 2 hours to Makkah, seemed impractical. Instead, we opted to travel from Jeddah to Medina and spend some time there first as it is not within a meeqat point.

Prior to our journey, we thoroughly researched the steps of performing Umrah. Armed with pocket-sized guides detailing supplications, duas, and sunnah practices. In our hotel in Medina, where we performed ghusl, put on our ihram clothing, and made our intentions before passing the meeqat point by train.

Upon arriving in Makkah, we checked into our hotel and proceeded to Masjid al-Haram via the hotel shuttle bus. The walk from the shuttle bus stop to the entrance gate took approximately 15-20 minutes.

Entering the mosque, we descended an escalator to the mataf area, where we caught our first glimpse of the Kaaba. After making numerous duas, we located the green lights to our right on the 1st and 2nd floor tawaf. With the Kaaba on our left, we made our intention and commenced the seven laps around it.

Despite the bustling crowd and slow pace, we maintained patience, remembering our shared purpose. Post-tawaf, we performed two sunnah rakahs behind Maqeem Ibrahim, drank Zam Zam water, and proceeded to Sa’i. We then did seven laps between Safa and Marwa. Exiting near Marwa we encountered individuals with scissors at the exit. I completed my Umrah by cutting the end of my hair, a service for which I was asked to pay. If I had known this I would have used the scissors I had in my bag. Moving toward the clock tower, we encountered people offering to guide us to a barber, where my husband completed his Umrah by having his head shaved. We finished our Umrah just over two hours after starting.

I highly recommend performing a second Umrah for a more familiar and peaceful experience. Our second Umrah, which we started in Masjid Aisha, felt different but equally profound. We prayed 2 sunnah rakats here, agreed on a taxi fare to Masjid al-Haram, and entered the mosque around 10 pm on a weekday.

The subsequent process mirrored our first Umrah, but this time, we took our time, relishing the experience. After completing our laps around safa and marwa, I cut my hair myself. We returned to the mataf area, we made more duas and prayed additional sunnah rakats before exiting through the King Fahd gate. My husband returend to a barber shop under the clock tower concluding our second Umrah.

Umrah Essentials

This is a list of things that I would say are essential for your Umrah. As a female, it’s important to have an abaya that you will put on before crossing the miqat point. I would recommend a breathable, loose white or black abaya and scarf. Also, make sure to wear comfortable socks. As a female, it is permissible to perform Tawaf and Sa’i in any shoes. Personally, I changed into clean new sliders when crossing the gates of Masjid al-Haram. This will help alleviate foot pain due to the amount of walking you will do. If you prefer not to wear sliders or different types of shoes, make sure your feet are covered/ you wear socks.

I also carried a small backpack containing a small light prayer mat for Sunnah prayers, a water bottle filled with Zam Zam water, baby wipes, hand sanitizer, and a pocket-sized Umrah guide that I found online and printed out.

For males, it’s essential to be in Ihram while crossing the miqat point. Wear sliders or flip-flops while travelling to Masjid al-Haram, as closed shoes such as trainers are not allowed. Males also need to perform their Umrah barefoot, unlike women. Some men choose to carry man bags or wear waist belts with their belongings. My husband opted for a small material-style backpack containing his Umrah guide, prayer mat, water bottle, and flip-flops.”

What to watch out for in Makkah

I feel saddened writing this, but it is crucial to bring awareness to others. As I mentioned earlier when discussing Medina, I was approached by people asking for money inside Masjid Nabawi multiple times. During our first and second Umrah, while walking between Safa and Marwa, men approached my husband both times. Assuming they were asking for money, we chose not to engage with them, especially as we were performing Umrah.

After completing our second Umrah, while making dua and performing Sunnah rakats in the Mataf area, a man and a woman approached us in Ihram clothing with face masks on. The man began telling us they were from Pakistan, despite having a strong Indian accent. We received the usual story of his wife’s bag being stolen, and they claimed to have no money with the police refusing to help them. My husband politely expressed that we couldn’t assist them, but the man continued insisting they had no money. I offered to make dua for them, believing that prayer in the Mataf area, facing the Kaaba, holds significant power. However, the man’s attitude changed, and he walked away angrily. As they left, I asked if he couldn’t even thank us for making dua for them, questioning the change in attitude and lack of appreciation. He did not respond and looked at us from a distance.

We fulfilled our promise and made dua in front of the Kaaba for them. If the story they shared is true, I sincerely hope they retrieve their belongings and money. Unfortunately, encounters like these are a recurring theme in Masjid Nabawi and Masjid al-Haram, and the possibility of people lying or scamming in such sacred places is distressing.

Outside Masjid al-Haram, you will also find people asking for money, some with visible disabilities, such as missing limbs. Additionally, kids may approach you to buy tissues, both outside the mosque and inside the Clock Tower Mall. While I do not know these people’s circumstances, it’s evident that they are not trying to sell you a story like the other people I have mentioned. Witnessing this in Makkah, of all places, was disheartening.

Getting ill “umrah flu” whilst in Makkah

While travelling from Medina to Makkah, I came across discussions about something known as ‘Umrah flu.’ Many people reported falling ill due to exposure to large crowds, where individuals from different parts of the world brought various viruses and bacteria. Shortly after performing our first Umrah, my husband started feeling unwell. He experienced fatigue, a tight chest, headaches, and congestion. Seeking relief, we visited a pharmacy and began taking a combination of flu/congestion tablets, paracetamol, cough syrup, vitamin C, ginger shots, and garlic.

Despite our efforts, my husband’s condition worsened as we approached our second Umrah. We were determined to complete it before his illness progressed too far. We took precautions, avoiding vulnerable individuals and minimising the risk of spreading germs. A few days later, both my husband and I became significantly unwell. He exhibited symptoms like high fever, shivering, rapid and shallow breathing, and crackling sounds in his chest. I also developed a sore throat and other symptoms. Consulting a doctor, we learned it was a viral infection, and we continued our self-care routine.

Unfortunately, much of our time in Makkah was spent confined to our hotel room, as we didn’t want to risk infecting others. We observed many people unwell and coughing in Masjid al-Haram, the mall, and our hotel.

Leaving Makkah while still under the weather, we opted for a destination with a cooler climate, hoping for easier breathing and less exposure to sick individuals.

This experience took us by surprise, despite being two young and fit individuals. I’m concerned that those who aren’t in good health, are older, or have weakened immune systems might struggle more than we did. I recommend taking precautions, such as maintaining a diet to boost immunity, taking vitamins, and practising thorough hand hygiene. Additionally, having health insurance is crucial for unexpected emergencies that may arise.

Makkah Conclusion

Makkah holds the most crucial place in the world for Muslims, housing Masjid al-Haram and the Kaaba. This makes it an exceptionally special and significant location for us, providing an unparalleled experience. I earnestly hope for the privilege to return. However, it’s important to note that the rest of Makkah differs from the sanctity of Masjid al-Haram, and in the future, I would plan my trip differently. I would opt for a hotel in close proximity to Masjid al-Haram and when flying into Jeddah, I would proceed directly to Makkah to perform Umrah first, before heading to the more serene and family-friendly environment of Medina. Makkah’s bustling atmosphere, in contrast to the slower pace of calm Medina, made for a challenging transition, particularly alongside falling ill. The experience of being surrounded by Muslims from all corners of the world was profoundly touching and beautiful. Despite the challenges, the unity among people from diverse backgrounds creates an atmosphere that is truly unparalleled.