Malaysia

Malaysia

Malaysia is a country that has captured my interest for quite some time. Surprisingly, I didn’t initially realise that Malaysia is a Muslim-majority country until my husband suggested the idea of travelling here and exploring the possibility of it being a potential place for us to relocate.

During our time in Malaysia, we dedicated the majority of our stay to Kuala Lumpur (KL), with additional weekend trips to Malacca and Johor Bahru. There are still other parts of Malaysia that remain on my travel wishlist, including destinations like Langkawi, George Town, and Sabah.

It’s essential to note that Malaysia is divided into East and West Malaysia. While West Malaysia is more well-known, being adjacent to Thailand and Singapore and housing the capital, KL, East Malaysia is situated on Borneo Island, which is shared with Indonesia and Brunei. This geographical distinction adds a diverse and intriguing element to the country’s landscape and cultural makeup.

Table of Contents

Kuala Lumpur

Travel to Kuala Lumpur

I travelled to Kuala Lumpur from London, with a flight from London to Singapore followed by a short connection to KL. During the check-in process at the London airport, I was asked about the duration of my intended stay in Malaysia. In my naive excitement, I explained that I was unsure about my departure date, considering the possibility of moving to Malaysia with my husband. I was informed that, given this uncertainty and the fact that I had no flight booked to leave the country within the 60-day visa period granted on arrival (applicable to certain nationalities, including mine and my husband’s), I couldn’t check in. This unexpected situation prompted me to hastily purchase a flight ticket out of Malaysia within the stipulated 60-day period, hoping to avoid the same check-in counter. As a result of this experience, my husband and I now always ensure we have an onward ticket booked when flying to a country, ensuring smooth entry and compliance with visa requirements. It’s a valuable travel tip that I recommend considering and utilising to avoid potential issues during check-in and entry processes.

Visa in Malaysia

As previously mentioned, the visa granted on arrival in Kuala Lumpur with my Eastern European passport, as well as for British passport holders, is a free 60-day visa. To secure this visa, one must provide proof of a departing flight from Malaysia within 60 days of arrival. Additionally, proof of accommodation and other documentation may be requested, although we were not asked for these during our entry. It’s important to note that the 60-day visa cannot be divided into multiple entries. Even if your stay in Malaysia is only for one day, you will receive this type of visa, and the remaining days cannot be utilised later. For subsequent entries, a new 60-day visa is required. Extensions for this visa are not possible, necessitating a “visa run” to a neighbouring country for those desiring another 60-day stay. In our case, we achieved this by spending a weekend in Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia, and also by making a day trip to Singapore.

Accommodation in KL

When it came to choosing accommodation in Kuala Lumpur, our initial choice was an area called Cheras. Our studio apartment, located on top of a shopping mall, offered an interesting experience. Cheras, known for its significant Chinese population, many with longstanding roots in Malaysia, meant that the mall had a variety of Chinese restaurants and bars. However, the area was not conducive to walking, dominated by busy fast roads. While there was a nearby train station with good links to the city centre, transportation to other areas on the outskirts proved challenging due to heavy traffic. Overall, I wouldn’t recommend Cheras as a stay option due to its limited amenities and transportation difficulties.

Our second move took us to Ampang, an area where many Malaysian locals and foreign workers, particularly from countries like India, reside. We enjoyed the presence of mosques calling for daily prayers, something absent in our previous locations. Ampang, located on the outskirts with easy access to fast roads, provided a convenient 10-20 minute drive to the city centre. However, we faced issues in this apartment, including problems with the water system and occasional unpleasant smells, attributed to sewage issues in various KL areas. Dealing with insects also became a concern. I recommend regular spraying of bathrooms and kitchens if you decide to visit.

Our final residence was in Mont Kiara, another Chinese-dominated area. Observing neighbours carrying dogs or pushing them in prams provided amusing moments. While Mont Kiara can be an attractive living option with a high budget, our experience was not within walking distance of many restaurants and shops. Despite this, we appreciated the proximity to a shopping mall and supermarket, offering views of the King’s Palace and gardens.

Many apartments in KL are part of complexes equipped with parking, security, swimming pools, and basic gyms. Kitchens typically feature stoves and washing machines, providing numerous amenities at a relatively affordable price compared to other capital cities. However, it’s essential to be cautious when booking apartments in KL, as lobby aesthetics may not reflect the actual quality of service, and unique external architecture does not always correspond to the internal living conditions.

Transport and Driving in Kuala Lumpur

In Kuala Lumpur, being the capital, we initially anticipated a busy environment and decided against renting a car. However, after a week of relying on trains and Uber, we found this to be both costly and time-consuming. Train travel required a specific card, available only at certain stations, and the alternative token system which led to challenges such as being unable to exit if accidentally missing the correct station.

Uber was a convenient but expensive alternative, prompting us to explore monthly car rentals through social media. Surprisingly, car rental prices in KL are affordable compared to other SouthEast Asian destinations. Additionally, Malaysia’s low petrol prices, resulting from domestic oil production and government subsidies, made driving cost-effective. However, we encountered toll roads, which required a touch’n’go card for payment, often not easily obtainable.

Securing a touch’n’go card proved challenging due to limited availability at petrol stations, and it needed to be purchased with cash. Topping up the card at petrol stations was also essential, and it could be used at certain tolls. It’s crucial to obtain this card early and keep it consistently topped up to avoid complications.

While renting a car in KL is more affordable and convenient for exploring beyond the main attractions, I would advise against it for new or inexperienced drivers. Navigating the busy and sometimes complex roads can be challenging, with frequent wrong turns. The traffic is hectic, with minimal signalling, fast-driving cars, and motorcycles. Despite these challenges, we observed fewer accidents than expected, but caution is necessary for drivers in KL.

Sim Cards in Kuala Lumpur

In Kuala Lumpur airport, we obtained SIM cards, a process that required presenting our passports, which were then photographed. Despite the identity security risk involved, there was no alternative method for obtaining a SIM card. We opted for SIM cards from two different providers: Hotlink and Tune Talk. We observed that Hotlink provided better internet service compared to Tune Talk. Both SIM cards could be conveniently topped up at corner shops like 7/11. It’s advisable to consider obtaining SIM cards from different providers when traveling with someone, as this ensures connectivity even if one provider’s service is less reliable in certain areas.

Gyms in Kuala Lumpur

I would characterise gyms in Kuala Lumpur as overpriced, making them unaffordable for many locals. The first gym my husband visited was a crossfit gym, where his membership only granted access to the open gym and not the classes. Reserving a time slot for each visit was required, and the cost was comparable to high-end leisure clubs back home in England, offering questionable value for money. The second gym we tried, located on the outskirts of KL, had good equipment and was relatively quiet during the day, but it was still considered overpriced compared to gyms in England with similar facilities.

The reasons behind the high costs of gyms in SouthEast Asia, including KL, remain unclear. This pricing structure seems to create a barrier for locals, making these facilities more accessible to expats or travellers. It raises questions about whether this trend is influenced by a lack of emphasis on health in these countries compared to the Western counterparts. This discrepancy in affordability limits the accessibility of quality fitness facilities for a broader population.

Restaurants and Groceries in Kuala Lumpur

Food supermarkets in Kuala Lumpur are generally considered expensive, with even local shops offering meat and vegetables at prices that might not align well with local salaries. Western supermarkets, while providing high-quality products, tend to have prices around five times higher. Consequently, many Malaysians prefer to eat at local open-air style canteens and restaurants rather than cooking at home, as it can be more cost-effective. This has led to a diverse range of dining options in KL, catering to different budget ranges, from very cheap to standard and high-end restaurants.

Although Malaysian cuisine tends to lack some of the nutritional elements, such as sufficient vegetables, many locals find it convenient and economical to eat out. The main dish “nasi goreng ayam” or chicken fried rice, is a common choice. As we try to focus on an active and healthy lifestyle, we personally made most of our meals in our apartment, occasionally going out for brunch or dinner.

In KL, healthy meal options in restaurants are acknowledged to be on the expensive side. While we didn’t find the standard of brunch restaurants to be particularly good, we discovered a couple of favourites towards the end of their trip, including Quack and Kenny Hills Bakers. For dinners, Lebanese or Turkish restaurants were our favourites for their high-quality food. Notable mentions include Hadramawt Kitchen, Yahala, and Steak Hut at Suzi’s Corner.

The Steak Hut, located at Suzi’s Corner, deserves special mention as a weekly favourite of ours. Known for serving tenderloin steaks for less than £10, it has become a go-to spot for steak lovers. I recommend trying it for good quality steak, served promptly, and without a hefty bill at the end.

Attractions in Kuala Lumpur

KL offers a diverse range of attractions, providing options for both free and paid experiences. For those seeking free activities, I recommend exploring the following:

  1. Petronas Towers: Witness the iconic towers during the day and their illuminated beauty at night.
  2. Suria KLCC Mall: Enjoy shopping and leisure in this prominent mall.
  3. KLCC Park: Experience the fountain show at night in this beautiful park.
  4. Bukit Bintang: Explore the vibrant nightlife of Bukit Bintang.
  5. Jalan Alor Food Street: Indulge in delicious street food on weekend nights.
  6. Perdana Botanical Garden: Relax in the serene surroundings of this botanical garden.
  7. Merdeka Square: Visit the historical square.
  8. Sultan Abdul Jamek Mosque: Explore the architectural beauty of this mosque.
  9. Putra Mosque and Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Mosque: Venture slightly outside KL to visit these impressive mosques. If you find that the free activities are not enough or you wish to explore more of KL, consider these additional paid activities and attractions:
  10. View from the Inside of Petronas Towers: Take in the panoramic views from within the towers. 2. Islamic Arts Museum: Explore the rich cultural heritage at this museum.
  11. Menara KL Tower: Enjoy breathtaking views from this iconic tower.
  12. Archery: Try your hand at archery for a unique experience.
  13. Genting Highlands Cable Car: Head to Genting Highlands for a cable car ride and explore indoor and outdoor theme parks.

These recommendations provide a mix of cultural, leisure, and adventurous experiences to make the most of your time in KL.

Petrona Towers in Kuala Lumpur

The Petronas Towers are a must-see attraction in KL, and observing them from the outside is a free and impressive experience. I particularly enjoyed the nighttime view when the towers illuminated the skyline, sometimes shining even more brightly than the moon. Around the area, you’ll encounter individuals offering to take the iconic picture of you in front of the towers. They use an iPhone and a ring light to capture the moment, and we opted for this service as it was reasonably priced.

KLCC Park and Perdana Botanical Garden in Kuala Lumpur

I appreciate the fact that, despite being a bustling capital city, KL boasts more greenery compared to other Southeast Asian capitals like Bangkok or Jakarta. KLCC Park and Perdana Botanical Garden became our frequent retreats, providing a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of KL. For nature lovers or those seeking a break from technology, I would highly recommend visiting these green spaces.

Bukit Bintang and Jalan Alor food street

Jalan Alor food street is a must-visit, especially on Friday or Saturday nights. The street is adorned with pop-up stalls, restaurants, and a vibrant atmosphere. Here, you can enjoy various options, including buying fresh coconuts, souvenirs, or indulging in diverse food offerings. A short walk away is Bukit Bintang, and the city truly comes alive at night, giving Bukit Bintang’s streets a distinct ambiance. The nighttime scene includes people playing instruments, a man showcasing different snakes from his collection, and an array of souvenirs.

The Friday night atmosphere in Bukit Bintang is particularly special, creating a sense of belonging in this bustling city. The streets are filled with people from diverse backgrounds and ethnicities, adding to the lively atmosphere. It’s an experience that makes you feel connected to the vibrancy of the city. However, it’s essential to note that you may encounter homeless individuals or those asking for money, some of whom may have disabilities or are caring for disabled children. This aspect is unique to this area of KL and can be emotionally impactful.

Culture in Kuala Lumpur

KL is a city where you’ll encounter Malaysians, Chinese families with a longstanding history in the region, Indian workers, and various other communities. The city boasts a rich tapestry of diverse cultures, reflecting a harmonious blend of traditions. Despite Malaysia being a Muslim-majority country, KL doesn’t always exude a predominantly Islamic atmosphere. This characteristic can be interpreted both positively and negatively. Regardless, KL is a place where anyone, irrespective of their cultural background, could envision settling down and calling home.

Female areas in Mosques and prayer areas in Kuala Lumpur

During our initial exploration of KL, I was pleasantly surprised to discover easily accessible prayer areas for females. Train stations consistently provided prayer areas that were regularly utilised, and shopping malls featured spacious areas designated for prayer, although the availability varied in Chinese shopping malls. Even while driving, I noticed signs indicating prayer areas, including those at petrol stations. Contrary to my initial expectations, mosques in KL exceeded them by offering dedicated and often larger prayer areas for females. These prayer spaces were typically situated on higher levels within the mosques. The mosques in KL are not only functional but also grandiose in their architecture. I would recommend even non-Muslims to appreciate the aesthetic beauty of these mosques.

Three mosques that I highly recommend visiting are Sultan Abdul Jamek Mosque, centrally located in KL. Despite technically being outside KL, the other two mosques are well worth the drive: Putra Mosque in Putrajaya and Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Mosque in Shah Alam. Each of these mosques provides a unique and awe-inspiring experience, showcasing the diverse architectural beauty present in KL.

Weather in Kuala Lumpur

One of the factors influencing our decision to spend a few months in KL was the hot climate and the absence of a heavy rain season, which is common in Malaysia’s neighbouring countries. However, we experienced daily rain in KL, occurring at times during the night and occasionally with showers during the day. Despite the unexpected rain, it was not continuous and typically lasted for an hour or two. The quick drying of the rain, facilitated by the hot weather, contributed to Malaysia’s lush greenery, offering yet another reason to appreciate the country’s natural beauty.

Kuala Lumpur Conclusion

KL comprises numerous suburbs, and despite its size being only 1/6th of London, it gives the impression of a vast city due to its bustling and densely built-up nature. Navigating from one part of KL to another can be time-consuming, primarily because of the persistent traffic congestion throughout the day and ongoing road construction projects. The city’s constant development contributes to its perception as a much larger metropolis than its actual size might suggest.

Malacca

Travel to Malacca

In our quest to explore more of Malaysia, we opted for a weekend trip to Malacca. The drive to Malacca lasted approximately 2.5 hours, mainly on motorways, with minimal traffic until we approached the city. The return journey, however, took over 4 hours due to heavy traffic. We decided to make a stop in Putrajaya, where we visited the Putra Mosque on the way back to KL.

Accommodation in Malacca

During our 3-night stay in Malacca, we opted for an apartment accommodation. The primary reason for choosing an apartment was its kitchen, as I had intended to prepare breakfasts.

However, upon reaching the apartment, we discovered a lack of kitchen appliances, and the stove was non-functional. Consequently, the only advantage of this place was its proximity, approximately a 15-minute walk, to Malacca’s Chinatown and Jonker Street, the location of the night market.

Restaurants in Malacca

In contrast to KL, where we found halal food in all the restaurants we visited, we encountered difficulties in Chinatown, Malacca, in locating restaurants with halal options. We ended up dining at two different Mexican restaurants, each offering a limited selection of halal options. It’s worth noting that other parts of Malacca might have a more diverse range of halal food options. Despite this, we did come across a couple of nice brunch restaurants in Chinatown, although they were quite busy, requiring a wait time ranging from 30 minutes to an hour for a table.

Our decision to dine exclusively in Chinatown was influenced by its walking distance from our apartment and the challenging traffic conditions in Malacca. Additionally, it appeared that Chinatown offered the most attractions and activities in the city. Attractions in Malacca.

When visiting Malacca, there are several recommendations for things to do and see, and a weekend trip is generally sufficient to cover the main attractions. Chinatown offers a pleasant experience for strolling around, whether during the day or night, with numerous shops and restaurants to explore. The Jonker Street night market, situated within Chinatown, is particularly bustling, featuring various food stalls and vendors selling a variety of items.

Taking a stroll along the Malacca River is also recommended, offering a picturesque view both day and night, with the latter being especially majestic. Malacca Port, which played a vital role as a trade route in the 15th century, adds historical richness to the town. Lastly, the Malacca Straits Mosque is worth a visit. Positioned on the shore of the man-made Malacca Island, this floating mosque provides a striking sight, especially when the tide is in, creating the illusion of a “floating mosque.” The mosque’s beauty is further enhanced during sunset as the sun descends into the sea. Exploring the man-made island on the way to the mosque is an intriguing experience, passing by many deserted buildings that add a unique dimension to the journey.

Malacca Conclusion

Malacca, with its rich history, offers a distinctly different vibe compared to KL. Certain areas seem frozen in time, contrasting with the skyscrapers and expansive roads of KL. It serves as a delightful escape from the city, provided you plan your driving times strategically. The noticeable scarcity of halal food in Malacca was surprising, but comprehensible considering the predominant Chinese population in this area, a common characteristic in many parts of Malaysia.

Johor Bahru

Travel and Accomodation in Johor Bahru Our sole purpose for visiting Johor Bahru (JB) was to embark on a day trip from JB to Singapore. In my upcoming Singapore post, I will delve into the details of the higher costs associated with flying from KL to Singapore and accommodation in Singapore. The journey from KL to JB took approximately 4.5 hours with no traffic, and we strategically planned to drive on a weekday while avoiding rush hours. Observing the increasing traffic as we entered JB during the onset of rush hour, we could see many individuals returning home from work, with a significant number working in Singapore. The return journey to KL also took around 4.5 hours on a weekday, again avoiding rush hours.

Our chosen accommodation was an apartment situated a 15-minute walk from JB Sentral station, primarily selected for its proximity to the station. JB Sentral station served as our departure point for the bus journey to Singapore, a topic I will cover extensively in the Singapore post. Accommodation prices in JB were relatively high, possibly due to the influx of Malaysian, Indian, and other nationals commuting to Singapore daily for work. With the daily commute taking less than 10 minutes over the bridge to Singapore, the demand for accommodation in JB led to elevated prices. During our stay, we dined in a single restaurant offering Indian cuisine—a moderately priced option compared to KL and remarkably affordable compared to Singapore.

Johor Bahru Conclusion

I sense that our exploration of Johor Bahru was rather limited, and despite its bustling nature, we might have missed out on many of its offerings. The city’s high prices can be attributed to its proximity to the Singaporean border and the influx of daily commuters. It becomes apparent why many individuals opt to endure a few hours of commuting each day to capitalise on the substantial cost savings. I remain uncertain if Johor Bahru has much to offer beyond being an economical residential option for those working in Singapore.

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